Burney Falls, catching a hitch to Mt. Shasta, bugs, bugs, bugs!

To parody a commercial we all know...
Days on the Trail = 88
Miles Hiked = over 1,500
Experience = Priceless!

The crew split up in the town of Burney so that Nightrider and Pancakes could meet up with family and friends further up the trail. Since we had already lost a couple in our group to injury, we were getting smaller by the mile. The Burney Falls State park area was so beautiful and the waterfalls were awesome. Burney Falls is pictured above.  

Liam trying to escape the bugs!

Before coming on the PCT, I had read about the bugs.  I honestly have to say that they are NOT exaggerating when they speak of how many mosquitoes and bugs eat you up out on the trail.  The over abundance of flying insects, however, didn't diminish the beauty of the Hidden waterfall at Camp Rock Creek.  We go to great lengths to keep away from the bugs. Liam is modeling his favorite headgear.  DEET doesn't stop them. 

We keep having close encounters with deer. I am not sure if it is because we all smell a little bit stronger or they are more plentiful, but they seem to be everywhere.  They want to get our gear for the salt left behind from our sweat.  They ate everything they could get their hands on.  Also we have seen herds of them as well.  Here is a short video I took: video of Deer

LIchen on the trail

This part of the trail we began to see a lot of lichen. There was so much you couldn't ignore it. The lichen provide food, habitat, and nesting material for a lot of the animals in the Pacific Northwest. They absorb moisture very quickly and hold onto it for a long period of time. They come in all sorts of colors and textures. They are present nearly everywhere on tree trunks, shrubs, the ground, and rocks. In large numbers they form kind of like scum on wet areas of the ground. They are both a fungus and alga but they give the appearance of a single plant. They make their own food so they don't injure what they grow on.

We started hitting 35 mile days and it has been feeling really good. As a runner, I ran a "long run" every week. Those of you that are runners will know what I am talking about. Sometimes I ran 17-20 miles at one time.  It feels really good.  On long runs you get in a rhythm and aren't really as concerned about your speed, you are just ticking off miles.  The 35 mile days are like my long runs, I am getting in the zone and checking out.  Letting my mind wander.  The longest distance I have ever covered foot running or walking has been 35 miles. The 35 miles we are going through now has a lot of up and down movements. It has been really hot and humid. At the end of each day, I have felt sore and gotten really dirty. It reminds me of my long runs on the dirt roads in Stillwater, OK.  The soreness feels good.  I know I am accomplishing a lot of hiking.  The elevation changes are severe some days we go up 7,277 feet and then go down 9,400 feet.  35 mile days are coming easy to Alex as well.  In order to make it through the mountains of Washington before the snow comes, we will have to put in a lot of 35+ mile days so getting into a rhythm is what we both needed to do.  

We had been seeing Mt. Shasta for over week as we headed toward the Oregon border.  After seeing it for so long, we just decided to climb it.  It was really a random stop and so glad that we decided to go for it.  There was a 7.5K vertical climb in 3 miles which is a crazy incline.  After we made the decision to climb up Shasta, we had to find a way to the trailhead. We started out trying to get a hitch.  

That is where a guy named Joe comes in.  We had asked for directions to the local grocery store and met up with Joe.  He is a very creative guy.  He took us to the fish hatchery, Heart Lake,  and then Mt. Shasta trailhead. The Mt. Shasta Fish Hatchery has open ponds of rainbow and brown trout that are used to stock the mountain fishing streams, rivers, and lakes in the area.  I can't thank Joe enough for taking time out of his day to help us make the distance.  Joe was one of the people we have met along the trail that I won't forget.  In a short period of time with him we exchanged memories, stories, and he inspired us to continue our nomadic journey up the top of Mt. Shasta.

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Atop Mt. Shasta

After summiting Shasta, we could see some angry skies in the distance and had to come down a little sooner than we would have liked. Instead of hiking all the way down, we glissaded as much as we could.  It took us over 7 hours to climb up and only 2 hours to come down thanks to the snow.  Liam got some good footage of us coming down the mountain.  Unfortunately, my camera battery was dead.  We slid down over 3 miles on the snow.  Here is a picture I took earlier to give you an idea of the incline.  It was so much fun.  

The terrain continues to be amazing. You can see if you have been through my journals that I am going through very different ecosystems along the way. All of them have their own beauty. I know that the peace of this nomadic lifestyle will beckon me to get out on another adventure from time to time in the future.  For now I am enjoying each day's challenges and getting into a rhythm of steady hiking.

Heart Lake on the way up to Mt. Shasta.

Liam, Bassboat, has to go to a wedding next month so he is going to have to make changes in his itinerary to work around his commitments. When Liam leaves, the group will dwindle down to 2 hikers - Alex, and me.  We are starting to see fewer and fewer northbound hikers.  That is a sign that many have given up the trail.  I am finding that it takes a long time to get your trail legs under you, but once you have accomplished that the miles come much easier and the distance you go each day is more significant. The "herd" is the biggest bulk of the thru hikers.  They should still be about a week or two ahead of us.  

As we are hiking, we are not seeing any more day hikers.  We have finally started meeting up with those doing the PCT from a southbound hike.  A large majority of the hikers start in April and finish at the end of September hiking northbound.  The southbound hikers normally start much later and they finish the desert part closer in the winter when it isn't as hot. I don't know the exact proportion but I do know that there are significantly more northbound than southbound hikers. 

The epic picture of Liam on Mt. Shasta

Fish

Zach relayed the above post via text and phone conversation.  He was having trouble with cell service. I apologize if I have made an error in transcription. Kayla 

S. Lake Tahoe, July 31-- Aug 1 - Halfway!!!!!

The last couple of weeks have been hectic due to a bombardment of secondary applications for medical school. After leaving South Lake Tahoe, we left the cool mountain peaks and encountered a massive heat wave. The change in temperature we found in northern California was dramatic. It consistently was in 90s and even surpassed 100. Along the way we have been reunited with Liam and Pancakes.  We lost both Chef and Special Ops due to injury, but they hitched up the trail to try to heal. Escaping the heat and the bugs became our mantra.

We met new characters out on the trail, one was named Master G. We met Master G close to the Peter Grubb hut, one of the few shelters along the trail.  It's main function in the past has been a ski lodge for sierra club skiers in the winter. Snow would pile up so high that the second floor had a "front door" to use as the main door for a good part of the year.

The further I get up the trail the more I love this lifestyle and don't want it to end. It's great to be in a community and a part of the "grind" again. The trail has slowly become more about the people you meet and the time you spend together than the nature and the miles. As Legend says "it's important to remember to keep your priorities, family, friends, and community before the trail." I was able to live out these words along this last stretch when I ran into a group of kids with their two leaders outside of Echo Lake. The group was on a week long backcountry trip. We stopped and they asked questions about our trip.  Even though the ages spanned from 9-14 they asked the best questions about the trail yet! I was surprised by their intense love for nature, outdoors and learning about the PCT.  

The longer we are on the trail, it seems the wildlife has been more present and also bolder. I finally had my first bear sighting. Unfortunately, I really don't have much to report. The bear was just outside of Drakesbad Guest Ranch and I am thankful he was not very interested in our group. We also got the rare chance to see three stags in the same area.

Now to the annoying animals. The most dangerous animals for our health and packs have not been bears, or mountain lions, but deer and chipmunks. Three nights now we have been stalked by deer, desperate for the salt on our pole straps and socks. The chipmunks not only will chew through bags for your morning snacks, but also bizarrely carry the Bubonic plague that can be transmitted via fleas. Most everyone has something with a hole it in or completely gone because either a deer or chipmunk got it while they slept.

Huge crowd in Belden.

We were getting tired as we approached Belden, which was a small town along the trail. Normally a town of about only 50 people, there was a music festival going on when we got there and the population swelled to over 4000!  We were not accustomed to being around many people at all and in the words of the Grinch they were all "Noise, Noise, NOISE".  

Pancakes enjoying his pancakes

During our two days there we felt like there was only a two hour break in the music. As one that practices "hiker bedtime" my body, ears, and mind was not used to 24/7 music or staying up all night. (Hiker bedtime is around 8:30pm!)

Somehow during the festival, we found our way to a bingo hall. This wasn't your grandmother's bingo however, it was more of a Vegas circus style act. The stage included 5 disco inspired gogo dancers, an acrobat, and two MCs that got the crowd pumped to to win jars of Nutella. Of all the things I expected before trail,  I never thought one of my most fond memories would be Liam winning bingo at a music festival in Belden! 

Dad sent some cigars, which Liam enjoyed.

Closing in on the halfway point  of the trail, we crawled out the next morning on little sleep for a massive climb. We were fried from the cumulative wear on our bodies and the lack of sleep. It was rough. Exhausted and feeling bad, we made it to the mile marker.  I had a package from my dad to open at that particular moment. He specifically had written me a note to wait until them. His "trail magic" was just the thing I needed to change my demeanor. Not only did dad include something for me and the crew, he had also sent some words of encouragement. His words gave me renewed strength and gave me the energy I needed for the rest of the day.  Thanks Dad!

Halfway!

I got a satellite text from my family, that I had received the long awaited approval of both my AMCAS and AACOMAS medical school applications. With the joy also came an onslaught of eight secondary applications.  Overwhelmed by the amount of work I needed to do on my secondary essays, the group graciously dropped into Burney so that I could get to work.  After hiking a 33 mile waterless stretch in over 100 degree heat, we were happy to find air conditioning, something cool to drink,  and everyone's favorite: pizza.

The beauty of the area continues to astound me. No matter how much I fight it, every great journey must come to an end. All we can do is enjoy the time we have been given and never take any moment we have for granted.  I am planning to enjoy every mile I have left.  I wanted to leave you with a few pictures from this part of the trip.  The next post will be about the trip up to Mt. Shasta.

The Mountains and Valleys Traveled the Past Four Years

For those who do not know me, my name is Katie. I am Zach a.k.a. "Dr. Fresh's" older sister. The past four years for my family have been a series of crisis and celebrations—a jumbled mess of crippling pain and seemingly unending joy. For example, Thanksgiving 2013 my Dad announced to our family that he had colon cancer. A few weeks later, my husband and I were engaged. In April of 2014, Papa Joe, one of the pillars of strength, love, support, and stubbornness in our family finally succumbed to his struggle with a litany of debilitating illnesses. Two months after his death, however, our family experienced one of the greatest days in our lives by celebrating my husband and my marriage, the joining of our families, and the creation of our own family with our son Drake. We laughed, shed happy tears, and spent the entire day surrounded by love. It was a very welcomed relief. Through the course of 2015 and 2016, our family endured the death of my Grandma Dana, the heart of our family; another cancer scare; a second cancer diagnoses; surgeries; and even more personal struggles. All have tested our endurance and our strength. I remember my Mom and I tearfully looking at each other a few years ago and saying, “Can we please just have a break?”  

I admit when Zach first approached us about hiking the PCT I was scared, but I knew that God was calling him. The look in his eyes told me that nothing was going to stop him either. As a result, my initial fear turned into excitement, which transformed to an overwhelming sense of peace. I have never truly worried about Zach while he was on the trail, even though many of the challenges he faces can mean the difference between life and death. At the same time, my Dad is undergoing a similar journey with the same stakes. Even though the chances that my father might not beat colon cancer are slim, they are still there. Yet, through it all, I have felt more peace than I have fear.  

Dad’s first diagnosis was the first time any of us had experienced colon cancer. We didn’t know what to expect, and the odds of it returning were so minuscule we didn’t think even contemplate it coming back. We completely unprepared for the second diagnosis. Despite going through it before, the second time brought more difficult challenges. The first treatment cycle Dad was able to have more “good days.” This time, it seems like he hardly ever gets a rest from the nausea and fatigue. He also lost all of his hair, which was shocking because he looks more like a stereotypical “cancer patient.” (Not entirely, you still look good, Dad) Through it all, he still smiles and praises God. Yet, his smile seems a little weaker and his voice is a little more worn down this time around.

My mom is already a chronic worrier. Unfortunately, she inherited that from my grandmother, the worry queen. Dad's cancer was the first time in more than 25 years of marriage he was the one who was seriously ill or injured.  In the beginning, the second time was harder for Mom than the first, but she recovered. I have been exceedingly impressed with how calm she has been while Zach has been on the trail. It is a testament to how much stronger she is after going through my Dad’s cancer diagnoses. She no longer worries as much.

Parents typically hide their hurts from their children because they want them to feel safe and secure. I understand that now, because as a parent I do the same thing. Drake has seen me break down twice after David told me my grandparents were gone. Drake’s wide eyes, intently watching me cry, showed me how afraid he was to see me so upset, so weak. I needed to be strong for him. I choked down the tears, talked with him about why I was so upset, and explained to him that it was OK to be sad and cry when we lose the people we love.

I can hardly bear to even consider the idea of my Dad or Mom not being here to watch him grow. I know that there are many people out there, including some of my friends, who are not as lucky as we are. They have lost their husband/Dad to cancer or some other disease. I am grateful for our circumstance. My son worships his “Big Wills” and loves his “Little Wills.” I do not want to imagine my son’s life or mine without them.

 

A few weeks ago my mother posted on Facebook that,

“Cancer doesn't just affect the person with the illness, it affects the whole family. Our lives are all changed. We find ourselves on our knees praying about so many things. The good that has come out of his illness is that in the midst of trials is where you grow the most. We learn to appreciate what we have and enjoy today.”

Cancer has changed our family. For the good. These past few years have seemed like nothing but one thing after another. I have probably spent months in prayer, pleading with God to protect our family and to heal it. Sometimes the weight of it all felt like it was going to crush me and our family, but we remained strong. Our strength, however, did not come from within. It was given to us by Christ and by the power of prayer.

At first I didn’t understand why Zach chose James 1 2:4 as his verse for the trail. I thought, why not choose Isaiah 40:3-5? It didn’t occur to me until recently that Zach didn’t choose the verse for his trip, but for our family. The last few years I’ve witnessed how much our family has grown and how much stronger we’ve become. We have scaled mountains only to slide violently down into the valley. In all those valleys, however, God, our living water was there. God has used all our circumstances for His good. He allowed us to witness to others and show that even in our struggles there is goodness. We found joy in the pain. Whatever you are going through, God has a purpose and his plans are always good.

Coincidentally, the end of Zach’s journey is towards the final stretch of my Father’s fight against colon cancer. The end of these trails also means an end to my mother’s anxieties. For David and I, our journey is not quite over, but I know that in the end God will prevail. The experience Zach is gaining and the beauty he is witnessing is truly food for the soul, nourishment to weary bones, and a sweet release from the burdens of life that he so desperately needs.

The beard

I know that when Zach returns home he will not only be changed physically (I mean, have you seen the beard?) but also spiritually and emotionally. When we greet him either at home or at the end of the trail my Dad, Mom, David, and myself will also be changed from the roads we've navigated the last few months. I am so glad that Zach has been able to escape to the trail to be able to rest from all the stress and tragedies that have happened. I hope that when our family’s struggles from the past year are over each of us can escape, if only for a little while. So that we may finally rest. That day is not here yet, but when comes I can assure you I will be jumping for joy then take a nap, because I am exhausted. Joyful, but exhausted. 

It has been difficult without Zach. I do have a feeling that sooner or later he will be called to the wilderness again. Selfishly, I hope it won’t come for at least a few more months (maybe a year).

If you read this blog and still do not understand how we are able to remain so strong and positive through some of the most trying times in our lives, I have the answer for you. Jesus.

Without Jesus, we are nothing. Our family would have never survived this without our faith in Him. Without our church, prayer warriors, and friends this process would have been much more difficult and a lot lonelier. We feel people’s prayers for us. We know God will protect Zach, heal my Dad, and take care of our family. Understanding these things brings a peace only believers can fathom. 

If you have any questions or want to know more about God, please speak to anyone in our family. We will be happy to share God's love with you and tell you all the good things a relationship with Him offers. 

Big Detour gives Mom a heart attack - but Zach a great experience! Mt. Shasta - 14,179 up!

I finally got to video chat with Zach today.  I had already planned to write a short article about what had transpired the last 24 hours but it was wonderful to hear from him and to see his face after such a long time.  This was our first video chat since he left in May.  

I had not been watching his satellite positions as closely the past two weeks. In fact I hadn't check in a couple of days.  I needed to send him a satellite text so I got online and accessed his map location.  I was NOT expecting to see that he wasn't on the trail.  He was MILES away. He was on his way down from a 14,179 foot climb from Mount Shasta. Trying to play the cool mom, I went ahead with my text. Now to put in perspective.  This is what I saw on the satellite.  The closer the lines are the steeper the incline.  I could see it was not only very steep, but it is also a glacier so I knew there would be snow up there.  

Our interaction is as follows:


Me:  Wow! You climbed Mt. Shasta!

Zach: Yeah, we saw it for a week and decided we had to climb it.  It was AMAZING! Got good pictures until my phone died right before we glissaded 3.5k down the side of it. 

I had to laugh at his response. Mt. Shasta isn't something you just go out and decide to climb. And his comment about glissade meant that he slid down the mountain in the snow instead of hiked down.  To do that such a great a distance is crazy.  

Hours later that I saw his hiking partner had posted a video of part of the glissade so I knew they had reached town. It has taken me over 1,500 miles but I didn't panic, tell him he was crazy, or a hundred other things that I might have done the first week of the trip. Instead, I found myself glad he was able to take time out and enjoy the journey. 

When we spoke he was pretty excited about the side trip.

This is what they stared at all week that made him want to climb it:

After talking with Zach, they did everything they could have done to make sure it was a safe ascent. They picked up crampons and helmets before they went up and checked in with the ranger station for the best route.  It took them over 7 hours to hike from the base to the summit and with the glissade took only 2 hours to come down.  Zach said they had long runs and shorter ones on their slide down the mountain.  

The video chat was so much fun.  I got to see both Liam and Alex over the phone instead of just see pictures of them.  Zach took this epic picture of Liam at the top of the mountain. He said bad weather was coming so they had to get off the summit quickly.  

What an adventure! Zach's dad, Jeff, had a rough week of chemotherapy so it was nice for him to take a break and get to talk to Zach as well.  Jeff has two more treatments left in his fight against Colon Cancer.  We have said before that perseverance, a positive attitude and your faith can get you far in life. We pray for continued safety for Zach and the hikers that are with him. We pray for divine healing in Jeff.    I thought it appropriate to put Zach's bible verse he chose for the journey on his blog today.  

  James 1 2:4  Consider it pure joy, my brothers, when you encounter trials of many kinds, because you know the testing of your faith develops perseverance. Allow perseverance to  finish its work so that you may be complete and not lacking anything.  

Another picture I wanted to post is one in his campsite. Zach has learned to do without a lot on this trip.  His setup is fairly simple. He has been blessed with great weather most of the trip.  

To all the hikers out there on the PCT, take care and be safe.  


I am hoping the link to Liam's video works, if not I will put it on his Facebook Page.

We are so amazed that God is working through you to provide support to families that are undergoing a battle with colon cancer. Thank you so much for your support!  Please continue to support Zach's Charity by clicking on this link:
PCTWithPurpose

The video of the glissade from Liam can be accessed here:  Glissade down Mt. Shasta


#pacificcresttrail, @ccAlliance, #PCTwithPurpose

New Shoes, fresh clothes - S. Lake Tahoe

Most of the towns where we exit the trail are small, some with fewer than 500 residents. South Lake Tahoe and Tahoe are one of the biggest areas that we will stop. These resort towns offer a lot of places to stay, eat, get fuel and get hiking resupplies. Along the trail, we heard stories about the all-you-can eat buffets at S. Lake Tahoe so were eager to get into town and try a few of them.

After a hitchhike and a bus ride, we were in the town. I had to write 3 essays for medical school applications, do laundry, and pick up packages so I opted to take a zero day which means NO HIKING.  After finishing most of the tasks, Nightrider and I headed to the beach. Others in the group used their Zero day to do a little sight seeing in California or meet up with other friends/family.

S. Lake Tahoe is where I planned to make a gear change. The pack I was carrying was much larger than I really needed and I wanted to switch to a hammock/tarp setup.  I opted to wait until S.L.Tahoe because I knew I didn't need a bear canister anymore so the smaller pack would be ok. The local outfitters store Lake of the Sky Outfitters is a ULA vendor so my family called them ahead of time to see if they had the pack that I wanted. They didn't carry the pack but allowed me to have ULA to send the pack there and my other packages free of charge. They are open 7 days a week, I suggest any other PCT hikers to give the outfitters a chance.  They have Darn Tough socks, and also have a list of trail angels that offer rides back to the trail if needed.

In addition the pack, I received a box from the family that included fresh shoes, food, and a new PCT with Purpose shirt for me to hike the rest of the trail.  It is ironic that I had called my mom before I got the package and asked if she could send some chocolate covered espresso beans. Reading my mind she had included the beans plus some salt water taffy from Main Street Sweets that I had also been craving. I can't thank my family enough for their help.

My new pack is locked and loaded.

My shoes - the 2nd pair after over 1,000 miles hiking.

As you can see by the picture below, it was time for a new pair of shoes.  This will be pair #3. It is estimated that most hikers go through at least 5 pairs of shoes on the trail. I am on track to replace them about every 500 miles.






If you are wondering how I communicate with my family, I send a  text via satellite link that gives my location. To give you an idea of what it looks like, I am posting an image of the map that they see.  I try to turn on the satellite when I start my hike and then shut it off later to try and save battery. Sometime later in the day, I turn the unit on a second time to check for any text messages I need to address. The blue boxes represent a messages. The red flags are way points along the trail. I can set the GPS to help me get to any waypoint if I have gotten off trail.

One of my friends requested a picture of my changing appearance. I have to say my hair is growing like crazy. I have dropped a few pounds and gotten stronger.  I have over 1,500 miles to go so at the end of the trail, I will try to do a side by side picture of my transformation.

Sonora Pass, saying hello to mile 1000!

 The group has hit some bitter sweet landmarks in the last couple days in Sonora pass, the 1000 mile landmark and the end of the High Sierras. Any serious hiker has to make at least a week long trip along one of the many Sierra trail routes. It truly is the most amazingly beautiful  places I have ever been with all the pictures and video I have collected not giving it any justice. 

The group I am traveling with has been called "the Riff Raff" and we got into Northern Kennedy Meadows and immediately got drawn in by the great hospitality and service at the restaurant and store. It was great to relax with my trail family and chill out on the porch all day with a full stomach, clean clothes, and hang out with a group of friendly dogs all day. 

Another huge land mark between me and Nightrider was our 2 month trailaversory. We celebrated like any thru hiker would with some  ice cream sandwiches, a delicious San Francisco treat consisting of two oatmeal cookies wedged with ice cream and dipped in chocolate.  A new temporary member of the group has tagged along named Wing it. She is a triple crowner on her third attempt of the PCT. For those of you that might not know it, the triple crown of thru hikes consist of the Appalachian Trail, the Continental Divide Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) that I am hiking. 

Wing it has been great to have around to answer many questions that the group or have had and has gained quite a bit of celebrity status by being one of around 200 people who have completed all three major thru hikes in America. To put the accomplishment in perspective more people have been in space than completed the triple crown, with only two ever completing all three within the same calendar year. 

Another milestone is that we were able to send home or get rid of our bear canisters! The canister is designed of course to keep smells and foods away from the bears, but they are heavy and can be difficult to get in your pack. I sent home some pretty smelly gear that I won't need in my bear canister!

Heading out today I will have the lightest pack I have carried the whole trail. I estimate my pack now to be under 25 lbs total, over 20 lbs less than what I started with at campo. You find out that you can do without a whole lot more than you think when you first start. If I could give any advice, it would be to be as light as possible.  That helps to keep you healthy enough to make it 1,000 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail.  Time to celebrate!  Maybe I will go for a hike? 

We have been lucky to have great weather for many days.

The beauty of the area is unparalleled.