Friday, August 26, 2016

Thieves, Getting pelted, and migraine - OREGON!

After months of hiking through the desert, the Sierras, and Yosemite, I have seen so many changes in the topography and have countless memories of the people that I have met along the trail.  The overload of beautiful vistas, mountain ranges, and meadows has given me a glimpse of the wonder of God’s creation. We are so blessed to have a country that is filled with so many natural resources. I am humbled by the scope and breadth of the 1,900 miles that I have hiked.  Finally, I made it to Oregon!!! California is such a huge state that it occupies what seems like an endless part of the trail.  Once you get to Oregon, you have your “trail legs” and each day you can just pump out the miles. 
Oregon has been called the “green highway” among the hikers because it flattens out in the beginning and you are free to walk as many miles as you can.  I have put in a lot of over 30+ mile days and have felt that they come easy.  I mentioned before that it is kind of like going on a long run.  You get into a rhythm and take in the sights and sounds around you. 

Another thing that is said about Oregon is that their honorary state “bird” should be the mosquito.  Anything that you don’t have covered they try to attack!  Every time you stop to rest or get a drink of water the thirsty insects come in for the kill.
We got our first glimpse of the rainforests in the Pacific Northwest. No trip to the Pacific Northwest is complete without enjoying the hidden gems in Oregon and in Washington. The spectacular series of 100 ft waterfalls and lush monstrous old-growth trees are only part of the serene landscape. You can find beautiful flower laden paths and we will soon be coming upon the many wild berry bushes along the trail. There is plentiful water and it has been hotter than normal for this time of year.

Our first major stop in Oregon was at Callahan’s lodge where good luck and misfortune both found me. The lodge offers thru hikers the chance to pitch their tent on their beautiful backyard campground. The day was going so well.  We met a great couple from Medford that was curious about our journey.  After spending time talking with them, they generously paid for our meal. That was a wonderful treat.  We got the chance to take a long shower and wash all our clothes. We looked forward to a peaceful night under the stars on the lush lawn at Callahan’s.
 
Lush lawns were at the park and also Callahan's. 
I went to retrieve my wall charger for my phone, external battery and the satellite communications only to find that a thief had taken them. Those are some of the most valuable things to a thru hiker because that is how you communicate with your family. Without your communications, you also have lost the ability to use your navigation tools on your phone.  I couldn’t believe that a fellow hiker would do that!  The charger and external battery were worth less than $100, but the value of them was beyond that. When you are in the wilderness, you can’t just go out and replace a much-needed item. I was not happy that someone had taken them!   
After settling in for the night, Alex (9-5) and I were awoken at 12am by a group of lodge guests shining a floodlight on us and pelting us with a hailstorm of beer cans from the second story balcony.  They hit Alex in the lower back and narrowly missed hitting me in the head. They threw a whole 6pack at us.  Alex quickly returned the favor by yelling at the patron and throwing the beer cans back up at them.  We cautiously went back to sleep without another incident.  Thank goodness we had planned a ZERO day so that we could get some much-needed rest before heading into Medford and Ashland to try and find replacements for my stolen merchandise.
The next day went much better.  After downing a huge breakfast of eggs, sausage and unlimited pancakes, we found the local REI store. Alex had to replace some broken gear and I found an external battery. Liam was meeting us in Ashland.  We were blessed with an instant hitch to get in Medford. The town is familiar with thru hikers so we were happy they stopped for us because with 1,900 miles under our belt I am sure we looked pretty suspicious. We had similar luck getting to Ashland to meet up with Liam. 
When we tried to get back to the trail we ran into problems in Ashland trying to find a ride. We tried for about 2 hours with no luck.  We ended up getting the number for a local adventure guide service and we were on our way. In hindsight, it turned out to be divine intervention. The driver and owner of the guide service was a colon cancer survivor.  He has been NED, no evidence of disease, for 1 year. It was great to talk to him about the struggle that my dad is going through. Finding some common ground, he decided to give us the grand tour of Ashland and some history about the area. One of the more interesting tibits of information was the history of the Oregonian Shakespeare Theater. 
According to our guide, the theater started as a college project in 1935 and has grown to have an annual festival and three theaters. Throughout the year they have both free and paid performances.  In the beginning they only did Shakespearian productions, but as time has gone on they include both classic and modern productions. The only time the theater has taken a break is during World War II. After being in the woods, it would have been nice to step back in time and experience MacBeth or Romeo and Juliet in an outdoor theater surrounded by the sounds of the forest. Unfortunately, time or schedule permitted us to join the fun.


The guide also took us to a beautiful Lithia Park, a 93-acre vista of emerald lawns, naturalistic plantings, and groves of all kinds of trees selected for their hardiness and color. The park is listed on the national historic register as it was founded in 1892 and has become a hub of entertainment and culture to the southern part of Oregon.
Our guide and Alex
We found our groove in the town of Ashland. We went from restaurant to restaurant and wandered in the unique stores along the streets. Liam grew concerned about his timeline and after a discussion with Alex and I, made the decision to catch a ride the next day further up the trail to Cascade Locks. He has a wedding to attend and won’t have time to finish the trail.  He was going to have to miss part of Oregon or part of Washington. After our experience with Ashland, he felt it best to move forward to Washington. I hated that after almost three months of traveling together our group would be splitting up before we reached the end of the trail. Alex pointed out that we all started the journey alone so that is was fitting that we may have to end it separately as well. 
Hanging out the last day together. I tried to get video of the herd
 of deer that ran by but it didn't turn out.
Naturally we decided to make the last night a memorable one and we stayed up gazing at the stars, exploring the rest of Ashland and reflecting on the good times we had together.  We had been through illness and injury, the desert, the highest peak in the lower 48 states and accomplished a lot. After seeing Liam off, 9-5 and I wandered into a teashop and had some unbelievable Yerba mate tea from a gourd. The tea was awesome. I drank two pictures of it! After taking a nap on Lithia parks’ lawn, we headed back out to the trail and our group that had started shrank to two determined hikers.
Herbal tea in a gourd was a first for me.
The miles came much easier and we jumped to over 30-35+ mile days and moved much quicker due to the terrain. Alex and relaxed into a rhythm for and the miles flew by.
As we approached Crater Lake, there were downed trees everywhere, a sort of Treemageddon that we had to maneuver around. It made going a little slower. Alex was meeting two friends at Crater so we pushed forward. We planned to hike the entire Crater Rim, the two musician brothers Jack and Jack, fell into stride with us and did much better than expected. We hiked 25 miles. Their car allowed us to hit the top tourist spots of Crater and we drove the entire rim trail. It seemed almost sacrilege to be riding instead of hiking after so many miles hoofing everywhere.
This is Wizard Island in the Crater Lake area.  Water is unbelievably blue.

The next morning I woke up with a terrible migraine headache. I started throwing up and had a nagging pain across my forehead.  It felt as though my head would explode.  As luck would have it, we were far away from a medical clinic or drugstore. After dealing with it for a while, Jack and Jake took me to Diamond Lake Resort where I booked a room to try and sleep. The rest helped and I stumbled out of bed the next morning after a good breakfast and headed back out to trail. Alex had come back to the lodge but was staying behind with the promise to catch up with me later.  I set out alone toward Elk Lake Resort. We had been traveling fast enough to catch up with another hiker named Nightrider. You may remember her from the South Lake Tahoe post.  Nightrider started the same day I did from Campo.  She had been hiking solo for over a month and was anxious to get back to hike with someone that she knew. She had jumped ahead of us so it was good to hear from her.  Our plan was to meet up outside of Sisters Oregon and for her to hike with us the rest of the way. With over 800 miles to go it will be nice to have companionship the entire trail.

Looking forward to catching up with Nightrider.
This is from South Lake Tahoe.
By the end of the next day, I still hadn’t see Alex.  I ran into several southbound hikers and asked if they had seen him but he was AWOL. The number of hikers we encountered has decreased tremendously.  I don’t know if most of the hikers that were on our same pace have quit the trail or we got too far behind, but I am not seeing other northbound thru hikers at this point. The number of southbound hikers should remain steady for the next few days.



Communications has been difficult on this part of the trail.  With that being said I am not sure if I will run across Alex again.  With the move toward the Mt. Hood area, the weather took a steep dive and previously the temperature that was around 90, had taken a nosedive and was a chilly 35.  I had my family send my raingear a few stops ahead of me so I am hoping for good weather until I get the gear I need for hiking in the rain.
Capturing the sky.

Deer are everywhere.

The Park



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